Category: DIY

DIY Kitchen Reno PHASE 5: Customizing your kitchen

Well, I’m happy to say that one no longer requires a strong imagination to envision what my kitchen is going to look like finished.  In fact, I’ve had several people say something similar to “It looks done to me, what do you have left to do?” This statement, and those like it always send me into a tizzy.  It inspires me to stomp around huffing and pointing at all of the “obvious” things I have left to finish while my guest just nods in shame for having not noticed.  But seriously, did they think I was going to leave the windows and doorways with no trim?  Or leave out a section of crown moulding as some sort of statement?  How about the base trim?  The caulking, the island makeover?  And all of the finishing touches that make a person want to dance and pet cats?  Funny how things stick out like a sore thumb to me, (probably because I’m stuck doing them) but most people just see a mostly finished kitchen.

And I suppose I should be thankful for that.

For a brief recap, we’ve painted the lower cabinets and the upper cabinets using two different techniques, we saved a load of money installing the quartz countertops ourselves, we tiled, and we tiled and we tiled.  And now we get to have a little fun.   It’s time to make these cabinets look like they were made for MY kitchen.  We are going to do a little customization.

On we go!

For the section by the sink and over the fridge, I made a simple three-sided box using the exact depth and width of the cabinets.  I used Menards best quality pine to ensure it was perfectly straight.  And yes, since the kitchen cabinets are oak, I should have used oak.  Even painted, you can see the wood grain is different, but it’s not noticeable unless you point it out, and it saved me a load of money to go with pine.  And you know by now that I’m a frugal bugle.

Cabinet before
Using a piece of wood as a spacer, nail in a piece of wood to the wall so that we have something to nail the box into. Do this on both sides.
See! Now the side of your box will fit in perfect and you’ll have something you can sink a nail into.

Full disclosure.  I forgot to take a photo of this next step but it’s simple enough.  Using some scrap wood, I nailed some pieces along the inside, front top of the current cabinets, again, so I’d have something to sink ,my nail into when I put the three-sided box in place.

Grab the box and put it in place. Sink the nails into the places where you placed the wood scraps.
Looks good, don’t worry about the gaps between the current cabinet and the box, the trim and caulk will clean that up.
Make sure your edges meet up perfectly.
Check!
Add your moulding, patch your nails holes, and add paintable caulk along the gaps. I was lucky enough to be able to re-use my old crown moulding without making any new cuts!  Give everything a light sanding and cleaning and you’re ready to prime and paint.
Using the FREE 3D design program on my computer called “Sketch UP” I was able to design something that looked very close to my final product!

Now for the creme de la creme.  It’s not a long stretch to say that the WHOLE kitchen makeover started with my dream for one particular section of my cabinetry.  I planned this design one evening after I was sent home from work, sick with the flu. I arrived home at 10 am, slept until 5 pm, woke with a splitting headache and body chills, and while laying in bed feeling miserable, I got a whim to start designing how I wanted the cabinets to look someday, so I crawled out of bed and whipped up this design.  And you know, it’s just what I wanted.  Flu works for me I guess.

 

First things first, I wanted to extend the middle cabinet out further in front, about 2-3 inches, just to give it a more custom look.  We emptied and removed the middle cabinet and we placed a piece of 1 inch plywood and two strips of 2×4’s where the cabinet would hang and screwed them to the studs.  Then we replaced the cabinet by nailing it to the studs, with longer screws of course.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now onto the top.  Just like the cabinet over the refrigerator, it’s all about finding a place to secure the “boxes” to the wall and to the current cabinets and also finding places to sink your nails.  And this time, I’m making three “boxes” instead of one, so it is a little more complicated.  I put quotations around boxes because none of them actually formed a box, the left and right hand sides are more like an L-shape, and the middle was made by securing the sides first, and then adding a front.

 

 

Ryan would cringe at this photo, but really, it’s all about establishing a solid base to nail my wood in place. This did the trick.  And I continued bracing, spacing and nailing until everything was sturdy and the top section had been “built up”.

So as you can see, the middle section isn’t exactly a box, it is just a front, (the tall pieces of wood are the sides of the middle cabinet which are already in place) and there are several places I have created to sink my nails into.  Once you put the front piece in, you won’t know about all the ugly behind it.

 

Next came the trim.

I know, my miters aren’t pretty! Thank God for wood filler, caulk and paint, you won’t even see it, I promise.
Add a quarter inch wood spacer so the trim can lay flush with the cabinet.

Add the crown moulding, fill in the nail holes, caulk the gaps, sand, clean, prime and paint that baby up!  Oh she looks goooooooood.

 

On to the appliance garage.  I’ll admit, this wasn’t a DIY on my part.  I told Ryan what I wanted to have in that area, a very detailed description, (which included my sketch-up drawing) right down to the type of hinge I wanted, and he surprised me by making  it for me for Christmas.  I was so excited, I painted it that night so I could see what it looked like put in place.  Now for the most part, Ryan used scrap pieces of oak to make this cabinet, so most of the cost wasn’t in the lumber.  It was in the super fancy hinge I encouraged him to splurge on.  And a splurge it was, but to me, it was well worth it.  This hinge ROCKS.  Once the garage was painted, we installed it by putting it in place, screwing it to the cabinet above, and caulking the seams.

 

Once in place we added an outlet (because what’s an appliance garage without a place to plug?).  And then I tiled the inside.  Yep, more tiling.  But thankfully, it was a quick job.

 

Let me remind you what that section of kitchen looked like before…..

Here’s a before photo
Section of kitchen before.

And there you have it!  The pièce de résistance of my humble kitchen.  (why are French words so much better?)

Adding an appliance garage
After! Customized, tiled, and painted!

 

 

DIY kitchen appliance garage added
I LOOOOOOOOOOVE it!

DIY kitchen appliance garage

 

Kitchen makeover, adding an appliance garage, building up the cabinets to the ceiling, painting cabinets, subway tile backsplash, DIY kitchen makeover
Don’t you just love before and after!

What do you think about that!?  Next up, kitchen island makeover!

 

Thank you so much for reading!

Jessie

DIY Kitchen Reno PHASE 4: Upper Cabinets

Well, here we are, chest deep in the murk of our DIY kitchen makeover dream (that never ends).  We’ve painted the base cabinets a beautiful iron ore using a $40 sprayer and a DIY spray station.  We’ve replaced the countertops with quartz and installed them ourselves, saving a TON of money.   We’ve added tile from floor to ceiling on two of our walls and backsplash which resulted in major impact for a low cost.  And now we’re on to the upper cabinets.

I know, I know… I ALREADY covered painting cabinets.  Why grace you with another super interesting tutorial?

Well, for one, I wanted to show you that you CAN have a professional looking cabinet with nothing more than good paint, brushes, and rollers.  And two, I can’t use my sprayer when it is 20 degrees BELOW zero.  Yes, it’s that cold.  The arctic chill has made its cruel home in Minnesota, and that cold has settled into the very depths of my sad, summer-missing soul.

So let’s get to it!

The primer goes on very flat and even, so nice.

Just like the base cabinets, remove the uppers and LABEL the hinges in whatever system you want, just make sure they go back where they came from.  This really will save you a huge hassle later on.  Next, like the base cabinets, use your fancy, or non-fancy sandpaper, 150 -220 grit, and going with the grain, sand off that exterior sheen.  One cabinet door should only take 5-10 minutes for both sides so don’t freak out.  Just get it done.  Remove dust and thoroughly clean with a degreasing cleaner and make sure the cabinet is completely dry.  I used the same primer for the uppers as I did for the base, which was tinted grey for the deep charcoal color on the base cabinets.  This was a little silly on the uppers since they will be painted white, but no matter, the primer is meant as a binder, and the paint will cover it.  Use your angled brush and paint a thin but even layer of primer and watch for drippies.  Primer has a flat sheen so it goes on very easily and dries quickly.  Once dry, sand with a fine grit sanding sponge. Sanding should take 30 seconds or less, you just want to smooth out the finish and remove any dust or debris that may have settled onto your painted surface.  Wipe clean.

 

Onto the paint!   There are a lot of good options out there, Annie Sloan with a durable top coat or General Finishes Milk Paint are two of my favorite recommendations, but please don’t go with a wall paint. You will never regret spending more for a project of this caliber. If you want to choose from a vast amount of colors, which I do, I’d go with my favorite paint for this type of project, Sherwin Williams Pro-Classic, which I did.   As I said before, this paint is created for high traffic areas and is made for trim and cabinets specifically.  It self-levels, so with the right brush and multiple light coats, brush strokes are invisible, and while it takes a little while to cure, you will eventually have a finish just as tough as wood with polyurethane.  A gallon can run around $75 so I usually wait for it to go on sale. Sherwin Williams has lots of good sales.  I got mine for 40% off.  I chose the color “Whitetail” to match my trim.  I also made sure I had a good small angled brush and a small paint roller.  I highly recommend Purdy, with the mohair glass finish roller.

 

 

About the sheen.  Some of you may remember that I started my base cabinets out with a satin sheen, and, in my opinion,  it just wasn’t glossy enough for kitchen cabinets.  So I ended up taking down the cabinet doors I had just put up and added three sprayed layers of topcoat, which also happened to be in satin, but were definitely glossier than the paint.  This did the trick and at least, since July, (back when it was warm…) they have been very easy to maintain and clean.   I wasn’t going to make this mistake with my upper cabinets.  I bought the semi-gloss.   A semi-gloss or gloss is a little harder to work with than a flatter paint, but doesn’t need a top coat and dries to a hard finish.  So for a big project like a kitchen, weigh your options and choose thoughtfully.

Raising up the cabinet doors assist in preventing drips by allowing you to paint or roll a thin smooth coat on the sides.

Another thing that is really important, you want to find a way to raise the cabinet door while you are painting it.  They sell cute little cones for this, but I usually use four of my food canisters or four matching mugs and lay the cabinet door on its back.  Then, using my angled brush, in the direction of the grain when possible, I quickly hit the recesses, first dabbing in the corners and spreading it out smoothly. The layer should be thin to medium thickness. Most importantly, make sure there’s no pooling in the recesses.  Always fan out your brush strokes so you don’t get a paint line.  Do the recesses quickly, under a minute so the paint won’t start to set up.  Once finished I use my roller, and roll out the main parts of the door and smooth out the edges.  Then leave it!  One thing to note with this paint, you do not want to over work it.  Lay it on quickly, fix any areas that pool or drip, and leave it to its self-leveling magic.  Your first coat is going to look like crap.  Accept this and don’t try to fix it.  As long as there are no pools or drips, you are fine.  You just wait!

Do the recessed areas first, make sure there’s no pooling.
test
Once you’ve quickly done the recessed area and fanned out your brush strokes, smooth it out with a roller.
Be prepared for the first coat to look streaky and slightly unlevel. It will level out as it dries.
See, first coat, not so pretty. Don’t stress!
This is after the second coat, already SO much better!

And I mean wait.  This isn’t chalk paint folks.  I waited over an hour before I touched it again.  I gave it a very quick 10 second sanding with a fine grit sanding sponge. Then I wiped off the dust, and did the same thing again.  Start with the recesses, make sure there’s no pooling or drips, move fairly quickly, and then smooth it out with your roller.  And because it is white and I was covering gray primer, I did one more coat, same as above.  Then I waited and flipped it over and did the same thing. If you notice any accumulation of paint along the edges of the unpainted side, quickly remove it with a chisel or razor before you begin painting.

Important:  If you are going to be painting the other side of the cabinet (with one side already painted) When laying your dried, painted side on whatever you are using to raise it up, put a towel between the painted surface and the risers.  You never want to put anything directly on paint that hasn’t cured.  It could leave indentations or even worse, take up some of the paint.  The towel will keep the painted surface safe.  Good towel!

 

Once you go through the tedious process on the other side.  Put those babies up, no top coat needed!  Then stand back and enjoy because you just crossed another thing off your never ending DIY Kitchen Makeover.  And boy does it look PRETTY!

 

Next up:  Making your cabinets look CUSTOM!

 

Thanks for reading!

 

Jessie

 

 

 

DIY Kitchen Reno Phase 3: Backsplash

I can say now, with all confidence, that I am whole-heartedly weary of working on my kitchen.  I have the base cabinets done, the countertops installed, and now comes Phase 3, the backsplash.  That’s the thing about these DIY projects.  People say, “I don’t know how you do it, I just don’t have the patience”.  And I think, neither do I.  And honestly I really don’t.  But what I do have is this astonishing ability to convince myself that whatever project I’m about to embark upon will somehow be a breeze.  A Saturday afternoon of hard work that will be followed by a plethora of delights.  Who wouldn’t work one measly Saturday for all those delights?  And then it’s a downward spiral.  After all, you can certainly order and install a countertop, and decide you are done right there, but what you can’t, or at least, really shouldn’t do, is paint a 36 inch section of base cabinet and decide you are throwing in the towel.  You just have to keep on going.  And we all know how one project tends to produce another.

I am deep in that whirlwind.  And there’s no getting out until I’m done.  And I will never be done.

Way back, (it feels like a lifetime ago) when I proposed the idea of updating our kitchen to my husband, I broke it into baby steps.   Obviously, for financial reasons, the countertops/sink were the part I needed to sell the hardest.  Once they were agreed upon, the rest just became white noise to my husband.  I had mentioned several times that I wanted to do a modest white subway tile backsplash.  Something classy, simple, clean, easy to care for, and CHEAP!  So about the time that I was ripping out the old backsplash and repairing the wall for the new tile, I casually brought up the fact that what I was “actually” going to do was tile from the floor to the ceiling on two of the walls.  This revelation was met with a “Jessie, PLEASE don’t.” followed by a lot of reasons that sounded like white noise to me.  (It goes both ways).  Mainly, it was an unnecessary amount of work and it might end up looking like a hospital laboratory.  But the designer I like to pretend I am invited Ryan to once again, trust me, I already KNEW exactly what it was going to look like in my head.  And it was going to be good.  Maybe EVEN great.  So he exited the room with a sigh, and I could only gather that he was absolutely delighted by the idea.  We’ve been married long enough that I can tell by the tone of his sighs on how upset he is.  If it’s really low and growly,  I’m certain that can only mean good things for me.

Let the tiling begin!

Here’s a section of my old backsplash, and part I had ripped out.

Before I get to ahead of myself, let me explain what I did to prepare the wall for the tile.  Using a variety of chisels and scrapers, I plucked out the old glass mosaic tile.  Thankfully, it came up ok.   Next, again with chisels and scrapers, I removed whatever chunks of mortar were left on the wall.  The paper layer of drywall was gone in most areas.  In order to fix that issue I applied a skim coat (a very thin, flat coat) of mortar to the entire wall that was exposed.  I let it dry overnight and lightly knocked off and sanded any major ridges.  Now it’s ready for tile.

The subway tile was fortunately on sale at Menards at 17 cents per piece.  The cost was a little more for bull-nosed pieces which I only used in a few small areas.  I bought two 100 pc. boxes to start off with, along with some gorgeous glass accent tile, grey mortar, a cheap forked trowel and 1/8 inch spacers.  I started right after work.  I used a hand cutter to begin with, but even with the few cuts I had, it was a bit of a pain.  Eventually, we borrowed a high quality tile saw from a friend and I would highly recommend you do that.  And if your friend has a crappy tile saw, you should rent a NICE tile saw.  (Unless your project is very small).  We have owned two tile saws in the past, cheap ones.  And there is a HUGE difference.  Rent yourself a sliding wet saw, you won’t regret it.  It cut tile like butter, louder and wetter, yes.  But oh so smooth.

Now I’m not going to get into huge detail about how to tile.  There are many good comprehensive tutorials out there and honestly, it’s a very forgiving process that is much easier than it looks.  What I will say, is that you get yourself a good level and use it like your life depended on it.  Wherever you decide to start, I started at the base of my countertops (with a spacer underneath) just make sure your first row is level.  From there, check with the level often, horizontally and vertically. You are usually working with spaces that are not always square so be prepared to make micro adjustments using your spacers or anything else that might work.  If it’s level, it’s going to turn out good.  You’ll also need a good square to make sure you are marking the tile straight for your cuts.

Another thing to note.  Mortar and grout are NOT the same.  In a pinch, you could get away with using a little mortar in place of grout (if the colors happen to match) but not the other way around.  Grout has no adhering properties.  It is meant to fill space between tile, period.  I know this because I had to look it up when I ran out of mortar with only a few STINKING tiles remaining.  And yes, I had to go BACK to Menards, AGAIN, in my “tiling clothes” all covered in wet saw gravy and mortar sludge to get more.  It was a very difficult thing to go out looking less than my usual fabulous.

Totally joking, I go from scrubs to paint clothes to pajamas most days.  Menards is especially used to me looking like ragamuffin.  It’s probably their pet name for me.

I had hoped it was Ladybug.

Now, the one thing I dislike more than placing the tile is grouting.  I think it is because once the tile is in place, the work looks deceivingly almost done.  But don’t underestimate the grout.  It takes time, and it’s messy.  And annoying.  Do you like to wipe and rinse and wipe and rinse, over and over?  Oh, you do?  Ok well, then maybe you would like grouting, but I don’t.

I broke the grouting into little sections of around 6 square feet.  Mix the grout to a semi-runny cake frosting consistency, let sit for 10 minutes, give it a quick stir and you’re ready to go.  Using a grout float, squish the grout into the gaps holding the float at an angle (so you don’t gauge the grout line with the float) Once the gaps are filled, use the float to squeegee the tile surface to make it as clean as possible. Again, holding it at an angle.  Let it sit until the grout has set up a bit, like 10 minutes or so, then grab your big ol’ damp sponge and wipe, making sure your grout lines are smooth and clean.  The less water you use, the better.  (too much water can weaken the strength of the grout)  Don’t worry about the haze, it comes right off.  Once dry, I used a paper towel to buff it all away.

I bet you think you’re done then huh?  You placed the tile, you grouted, you sealed the grout (I used a grout with the sealer built in to the mix, but if not, it’s just a wipe on sort of thing) And it looks like a finished masterpiece.  Right?

Almost.  It is important you allow room for expansion and contraction in your tile.  You do this by using caulk.  So the gap where the tile meets the countertop, DON’T grout that!  If you already did, pluck it out and learn to read a whole tutorial before you begin your work!  This gap must be filled in with caulk.  Get a caulk that matches the color of the grout.  Cut the caulk tube at an angle and, using your caulking gun, run a thin bead of caulk along your line.  Dip your finger in water and run it against the bead of caulk to smooth it out, wipe off any access (I use a small sponge), and let dry.  You are done.  Make sure to caulk where the tile meets trim of any kind and where it meets the cabinet or in my case, where the tile meets the ceiling.

For those of you using colored grout, here’s another trick.  If you have areas that end up uneven or choppy looking, ex. Where the tile meets the un-square ceiling.  Instead of using your colored caulk that matches your grout, use the color of your ceiling to disguise the ugly line.  Same with where the tile meets your trim, in a doorway or windowsill perhaps.  Just use a caulk that matches the color of your trim.  It will blend it right in.

Man, when I write this, it makes it sound like I did this in one afternoon.  HA!  Between the tiling and the grouting, it was four afternoons. Only instead of “noon”, it was more like first thing in the morning until late at night. AND throw in a few instances of after work until evening.  Oh and one 5:30 am in my pj’s before church, cause mama just couldn’t sleep when she’s “this close to being DONE!” (I’m mama in this scenario) And I haven’t even finished all the caulking yet…..

As you can see, I have not caulked the gap between the ceiling and the tile yet. Once I use a white caulk, you won’t be able to see how uneven that last row of tile is.  I’ll get to it eventually.

 

kitchen3

 

And there you have it.  I think, out of all the projects so far, this one has the most impact for the least cost.  In fact, for all of the tile, accent tile (which cost almost as much as all the subway tile!) mortar, grout, caulk and supplies, the cost came to about $200.  That is money well spent if you ask me.  So please, ask me, and I’ll tell you it’s money well spent.

 

Stay tuned for my next tutorial, hand painting the upper cabinets.

 

And thank you so much for reading!

 

Jessie

DIY Kitchen Reno PHASE 2: Countertops

Good news!  This one is bound to be short.  Or shortish.  Unlike my last post on painting my base cabinets, this one is not even a tutorial really, it’s just me rambling on about countertop choices.  But if you are in the market for a new countertop or like reading stuff, it may be worth your time.

So for years I have tried to find a suitable countertop that I could just make myself.  Why?  Because I’m incredibly cheap frugal, and because of the pride I get from doing something on my own.  But mainly, it’s the cheap thing, and the irresistible challenge of trying to make it look like it’s not.  And in my years of DIY I have learned that with certain projects, that goal is sometimes hard to achieve.

Here were my top DIY countertop choices:

Concrete:  I’m talking the whole shebang.  Custom molds, edging, bracing, mixing, polishing, acid staining and sealing.  We actually made concrete counters in our old house.  They were heavy, they were messy, and they didn’t turn out “exactly” as I had hoped.  Mainly, they were a lot of work, and required a decent amount of materials and tools to do a top notch job.  They also can be a bugger to seal.

Check out some beautiful examples and tutorials by Cheng Concrete Exchange.

Our DIY concrete countertops in our old house.
Our DIY concrete countertops in our old house.

 

Concrete overlay: Either over the existing counters, or more likely, over a new plywood base (because I didn’t like built in backsplashes in our existing countertops) This also seemed like a lot of work.  It would require a ton of sanding and polishing inside the house, and then there’s the whole sealing issue again.  Check out a favorite blogger of mine and her tutorial for a concrete overlay.

Wood:  Why not?  It’s beautiful and I could do it myself.  But my kitchen gets such heavy traffic… painting, and projects involving solvents, and even some cooking, so even with 20 coats of poly, or epoxy I could picture it getting scratched, yellowed, chewed through and yucky, or having water issues.  Also, Ryan said no.  Here’s a great example of a wood countertop.

Paint and epoxy: Again over our existing countertops.  I have actually done this as well on my old kitchen island, and honestly, for a cheap, plywood island top, it came out pretty close to looking like granite and it cleaned very well.  But man, getting that epoxy perfect is tough, and I was distraught over how many bubbles and imperfections were on the surface.  Also, if I wanted to go with a light color mix, it would be especially noticeable when the epoxy started to yellow over time. And again, I really wanted to get rid of the built in backsplash.   So I nixed that idea pretty quick.  Here’s a great tutorial on the process of painting and using epoxy on your existing counters.

So this whole, I gotta find a cheap countertop that I can do by myself no matter how much work and time it takes went on for several years.  Until fairly recently.  This last year it has become much clearer to me that my time is valuable and why not focus my attention on things that are important to me, and also things I am good at.  I thought, “Jessie, not EVERYTHING needs to be DIY, not everything girl.” And I starting considering that perhaps I could splurge on a real countertop if I could find an incredible deal.

I took my idea to Ryan.  I presented it as an “opportunity”.  My key points were as follows:

  1. It would increase the value of our house. People LOVE nice counters.  And we needed to replace ours sooner or later, why not upgrade?
  2. It would be a countertop that is low/no-maintenance, and stain resistant   Then I pointed to the coffee maker sized brown stain next to our sink.  I threw in a disgusted look for good measure.
  3. New sink! Which is a must.  (More on that below)
  4. I would do…. like….. ALL the work and it would be the beginning of the whole kitchen makeover! And I would blog about it, and you know, some bloggers make a ton of money and they retire from their day jobs and just blog about their pretty houses and their pretty projects and the crazy hijinks they get themselves into. (maybe I should have left out the hijinks part, boy does Ryan hate my hijinks)
  5. It would be GREAT to have an updated kitchen.  It “might” even bring the whole family together, you know… all four of us cooking and laughing and dusting flour on each other’s noses for giggles?!

So, after that stunning presentation and hearty bow,  Ryan must have needed some time to take my words and ponder them in his heart, because he went right back to watching TV.  But I wasn’t worried.  He does that.  A week later, when we were knee deep in a lively discussion involving finances, he brought up the countertop like it was something we were going to do.

Jackpot!

In all the years I researched DIY counters, I also read dreamily about other countertop choices.  I fell in love with soapstone, marble, granite, and some beautiful composites, but my most practical yet still fabulous pick would be quartz.  Why?  Because it is practically zero maintenance, bacteria resistant, stain resistant, heat resistant and oh so pretty!  In fact its one drawback, is its price.

And that’s not good for this cheapskate.

But I thought I’d look into it.  After researching several manufacturers and installers in town as well as big box companies like Lowes, and Home Depot, I found that prices ranged from $60-$98 per square foot installed.  With approximately 42 square feet (which didn’t even include my island) and a undermount sink, we were looking at $3,100-4,700.

Or were we?

So I did what I always do, I took it to a DIY level.  In all of my research, there is one place in town, (that I know of), that will let you install the countertops yourself.  And of course I should have known it was Menards, my home away from home.  So I went to their website and printed off their countertop measuring guide, I measured, re-measured, and had Ryan measure the existing countertops, and noted where we would want a finished edge.

And then I waited.  I waited because I knew, in my heart of hearts, that these countertops were bound to go on sale.  And you know what, they did.  I can remember the exact moment.

I was enjoying a Moscow Mule at my in-laws house over the 4th of July weekend.  And, I’m not sure if it was the mule talking, but I swear I heard a faint but distinct whisper, “Hey you… looky there.” And there it was, just inches away from me, resting patiently on the coffee table, awaiting my wandering eye.  A Menards Ad.

On that ad was a picture.

That picture was of a countertop.

That countertop was my countertop.

That countertop was on SALE.

And I’m not even kidding, the moment my eyes met the word “sale”, fireworks went off… literally, outside!

Probably because it was the 4th of July.

But I took it as a sign.  I might actually pull this off.

So after the 4th of July festivities, Ryan and I took our sheet into Menards where they put all of our measurements into a program.  We discussed edge choices, and where to put the finished edges, sink options and cut-outs.   We decided to go with a under-mount sink for an additional cost and ogee edges.  And we put it on our Menards card.  The whole thing INCLUDING the 31 inch sink came to $2200.  (not counting the 11% off rebate which was ALSO going on, ka-ching!)

Now a moment about the sink.  This was, in many ways, an even bigger deal than the countertop.  At the time, we owned a 24 inch sink.  24 inches split in two. (that’s… 12 inches you know)  A pan doesn’t even fit in this sink.  We use pans often.  We eat meals.  A small sink, is not a good thing for a family that cooks and has a lot of messy hobbies.  And don’t get me started on the color.  Cream.  While initially very nice looking, it had become a bit ombre over the years, cream on top, brown at the base.  I paint, I tile, I’m messy!  (Ryan and the kids are gross too)  This sink was BADLY stained.  In fact, It was so bad, I actually got a can of comet, with a bow on top, for Christmas.  (I can take the hint)

So the 31 inch STAINLESS steel under-mount sink was kinda a big deal!

 

Remember when it was cool for people to say “I’m kinda a big deal” all the time?  HATED that.

 

Sorry, I digress.  Wow, and I thought this wasn’t going to be long…

So we put in the order for the countertop and sink, and I started searching and reading.  Ok, I had been searching and reading long before that, but I read with more intensity.  More gusto!  I wanted to find other people who have installed this countertop, how they installed it, and what they thought.  Unfortunately the internet was limited on this exact product.  But here and here are a couple.

With Menards, after you put in all your measurements, they send them off to a magic place somewhere, and in a week or so, you get a life-sized template that you lay over your existing counters.  This will have your finished edges marked and your exact dimensions.  Once you approve this template, the countertops will be made to these exact specifications.  This part scared me because Ryan had already opened the templates, checked them, and packed them up before I got home, and said they were good to go.  And of course, he is more qualified to say this than I, he’s a contractor for goodness sake. Seeing him work a tape measure with such precision can make this girl swoon.  I just wish I would have been there.  So after 4-5 calls and texts to “make sure” that he was comfortable with me approving the template.  I went online and said, “GO AHEAD, those templates are spot on!”  Or something less British sounding.

Fast forward another week and a half, and I get an email that said they were in.

THEY WERE IN!!!

So I’m like… we need men, a lot of men! And a trailer!  And should we turn up the heat?  Turn it down?  And while I was planning in a frenzy of how we could  possibly get these countertops home,  Ryan went and picked them up by himself.  They were packed upright on a large wood frame that Menards forklifted into the back of our truck.  Ryan cautiously drove them home, and then forced my 15 year old daughter and two of her friends to help us unload each countertop piece by piece into the house.  They were unbelievably heavy. We put cardboard down on the ground inside and leaned the countertop upright, on edge.  It is VERY important that when you are unpacking and carrying the countertops sections that they always remain on edge.  Too much pressure could make them snap.  It is also important that the countertop becomes acclimated to your house temperature. (This is especially important if the countertops were allowed to get cold) Letting them sit overnight should do the trick.

We installed the countertops in pieces, starting with my 9 foot long section.  We were able to use a cart to wheel it over to the general area.  And then somehow, by superhuman strength, my husband, daughter and I lifted it into place.  Seriously, it is SO heavy.  Over the course of the week, we installed the remaining three pieces and the undermount.    Everything went according to plan with no issues.

Processed with Snapseed.
This is the backside of the sink portion. The sink clips have been set in place with epoxy. (Everything is provided by Menards) Big Head and Celia make great project supervisors because they aren’t afraid to tell you they hate your work.  (this is done in facial expressions)  Also, they can’t resist a new place to lounge.

While I did read up online about tips for the install, we mostly just followed the instructions that were given to use from Menards.  Here’s some important tips.

  1. As I said, leave them on edge until you are putting them in place, never lay them down flat.
  2. Make sure your cabinets are ready for them. I mean level, strong enough to support the weight, and securely fastened to the wall.  Any unlevel spots in the cabinet could cause stress on a section of the counter, which could cause it to crack.
  3. Have adequate help. I would suggest less 15 year old girls and more burly men, but that’s just my opinion.  But for real, they crazy heavy foo.
  4. Research, research, research!  Read reviews, tutorials, ask the professionals!  Installing this type of countertop is totally doable, but make sure you know what you are doing.

 


Processed with Snapseed.
Without giving too much away, ahem… the backsplash.  Here’s an up close photo.  The color is called “Cotton” and it is pure white with little grey, taupe, and clear chunkers embedded into it.
Processed with Snapseed.
Here’s the long section.  So smooth, so shiny, SO easy to clean!
img_0306
Here is a photo of the seam, not bad!

Riverstone Quartz Countertops in Cotton img_0300

 

Coming next: the backsplash, although, I don’t think you can call it a backsplash when it covers the whole FLIPPING wall!  Oh, I wear myself out…

Stay tuned.

 

Thanks for reading!

Jessie

Can you turn a armoire into a desk? Yes, you can, cause I just did.

Often times, when I buy a new piece to makeover, I like to give myself time to daydream about it until “THE idea” comes to me.  This is usually about the time I am bundled up in my bed with my blankie wrapped around my head and saying my nightly prayers.  I can tell you, when you have a creative bug, there is nothing more distracting then when an idea pops into your head and I often find myself in the midst of talking to God about all the things that matter in my life, when…. “OH MY GOSH, I could totally turn that armoire into a desk!” comes barreling through.  And once the idea is implanted in my head, it is hard to remove and I often have to end my prayers with something like, “oh, and I’m sorry I keep thinking about that dresser.”  But I have to remind myself that God gave me the creative bug in the first place, so I hope he understands.

So that is how it was with this fairly dated, hotel style, oversized tv cabinet that I had yet to own.  It was at an upcoming auction and I already knew it would be mine.  Fast forward a week or so, and it was (for a reasonable price I might add), and it was even bigger and more hotel style then I ever imagined.  But I knew what was going down with this piece, and I was excited!

So here’s my plan.  I was going to cut off the top, I know, some of you are cringing, but this vision came to me, mid-prayer, so it must have been important. So just go with it.  Ok, so remove the top entirely, keeping the hardware of course, because it’s fabulous.  Paint the dresser using Amy Howard’s High Performance Furniture Lacquer in Belgium Blue. We are talking a high gloss, super strong , durable, gorgeous finish.  Then I’m going to add a long metal top, maybe an aged zinc finish, and some cute metal legs from the pile of legs I have in my basement.  It is going to be so cool.

So cool.

20160312_161455-01
Armoire Before

So, of course, this was in the middle of winter, and painting with that lacquer was not something I can do indoors without killing my family’s brain cells fume-style, so I held my ideas close to my heart, and waited and waited, as a good Minnesota girl often has to do.

But then there was a break, March 12 was the day, and it was mid 60’s, so I got out my wood filler, and sandpaper and my paint, and I went to work on the first drawer.  Here’s what I did.

  1. Fill any major scratches, holes and dents. This is especially important for a high gloss paint because it is way less forgiving.
  2. Once dry, sand the spots you filled using whatever grit you are comfortable with. I used 220 to make it go faster.
  3. Sand the whole piece with 400 grit sandpaper.
  4. Clean thoroughly using a degreaser and a lint free rag.
  5. Remove any trace of the degreaser with a damp lint free rag.
  6. Tape off any areas you don’t want painted.
  7. Spray with Amy Howard Primer using a sweeping motion, just as if you were using a paint brush. (more on this later)
  8. Let primer dry according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
  9. Sand with 400 grit sandpaper and remove dust.

Note: the primer is meant to go with the lacquer, and is especially important for filling wood grain, if your piece has a heavy wood grain texture, you may want to do several coats of the primer to get a smooth, glass like finish.

Amy Howard primer
Here’s the drawer after the filling, sanding and priming.

 

  1. Now the paint. With my drawer face facing the sky, I first painted all of the vertical edges of the piece, using a fairly quick, clean sweep.  Then (and this is the most important part for this paint) I started at the corners closest to myself and started to sweep, back and forth very intentionally and carefully going slightly past the piece on both sides.  (the reason you start closest to you is to avoid overspray, which will make your finish blotchy and less glossy in some areas.

How to properly spray Amy Howard Lacquer finish by de-uglied designs How to properly spray Amy Howard Lacquer finish by de-uglied designs

 

11. Once dry, sand lightly with 400 grit sandpaper, and do a second coat using the same method.

12. For extra protection, top painted finish with Amy Howard Bright Idea using the same technique.

How to properly spray Amy Howard Lacquer finish by de-uglied designs
Here’s the completed drawer. What a gorgeous finish!

So over that next week or two, I finished all of the drawers and the body of the dresser/desk.  The main thing you need to think about with this product is to avoid overspray.  Always keep that in mind.

 

Next comes the top.  I wanted to do something different then a plain wood top, so I thought it would be neat to try a metal top with an aged zinc finish. Finding the sheet metal was more of an undertaking than I had thought, but thankfully, my husband used his contractor wiles to get me a sheet of 4X10 foot sheet metal, 26 gauge.  The goal was to wrap a piece of 3/4 inch thick plywood that I had cut to size with the sheet metal.

 

Now, I am leaving out the metal bending part for a reason.  For those of you who want to duplicate this look, you either need to own a break, (and if you own a break, you already know how to bend metal) or you need to have a metal worker bend it for you.  From what I have read, this can cost around $100 or more.  Thankfully, my wonderful husband used breaks for many years, and also had access to one.  So he bent up the corners for me so I could wrap the plywood.

 

Now for the top.  The metal was very shiny, scratched and etched in areas, but that’s no problem, it just adds to the look I wanted.  I used a strong de-greaser, followed by a rinse of tap water and let dry.  Then I got out my oxidizing product.  I used Amy Howard Zinc Antiquing Solution.

This process was so easy!  Wearing gloves, I poured out the zinc solution in a glass bowl and started blotting it on, very liberally at first.  You will notice the oxidizing starts immediately.  Once it is covered completely, you’ll see that the metal will resist it in some areas.  What Amy Howard recommends is rubbing the product in, in a circular motion using mild pressure.  Do this for 15 minutes.  Then blot again, making sure to make your blots random so you don’t have a detectable pattern.  Let dry about 60 minutes or more. Dry time is important.

Amy Howard Zinc solution tutorial by de-uglied designs
Here I am applying the Zinc Solution in a circular motion.
Amy Howard Zinc solution tutorial by de-uglied designs
Here is the top after it is almost dry.

Once the top had dried for at least an hour, I used my wax brush and brushed on clear wax in a circular pattern, waited 10 minutes, and buffed it.  I used Amy Howard’s Clear Wax.  Note that most waxes are not food safe, so be smart.  Use a plate.

 

With any waxed surface you will want to periodically re-wax using the same method.  And please keep in mind that this metal will scratch.  I think this just adds to the look.  However, if you get so many scratches and want to re-age the piece.  Remove the wax with mineral spirits, and re-apply the Zinc solution as I did above.  Then re-wax.  No, it will not remove the scratches, but it will blend them into the patina, by making them dark.

 

Once the top was finished and waxed, we made a skirt for the desk part, to make it look more desky, and also to cover the hardware for the legs.  Then we attached our top to our dresser, added the legs, and Voila…. something totally unique and trendy!

Armoire makeover into a desk!  Paint used, Amy Howard High Performance Furniture Lacquer in Belgium Blue.  Top was made by covering plywood with sheet metal and antiquing it with Amy Howard Zinc Antiquing Solution.  by de-uglied designs Armoire makeover into a desk!  Paint used, Amy Howard High Performance Furniture Lacquer in Belgium Blue.  Top was made by covering plywood with sheet metal and antiquing it with Amy Howard Zinc Antiquing Solution.  by de-uglied designs Armoire makeover into a desk!  Paint used, Amy Howard High Performance Furniture Lacquer in Belgium Blue.  Top was made by covering plywood with sheet metal and antiquing it with Amy Howard Zinc Antiquing Solution.  by de-uglied designs Armoire makeover into a desk!  Paint used, Amy Howard High Performance Furniture Lacquer in Belgium Blue.  Top was made by covering plywood with sheet metal and antiquing it with Amy Howard Zinc Antiquing Solution.  by de-uglied designs

 

I can’t say enough about how much I love this finish.  The photos just don’t do it justice.   Amy Howard products are available at Ace Hardware, and this lacquer is worth checking out.  The end product is so smooth I have a strange desire to lick it.  (But don’t worry, I haven’t…. yet.)  This awesome desk will be at Eco Chic’s Design Conference on April 23rd at the Scheel’s Arena.  (yep, that’s this weekend) There are still tickets available and it is going to be a super fun show.  I hope to see you all there!

 

ps.  that extremely cool glo-dial advertising neon clock is available as well, that is, if you can pry it from my husband’s cold dead hands.

 

Thanks for reading!

 

Jessie

 

 

Mercury Glass Finish

When I started this project, I had not meant it to be a tutorial or a review, so I apologize ahead of time for the lack of photos.  I just loved how it turned out and I was impressed with the products I used, and I thought I’d share a bit about both.

First, the piece.  I bought this cute little cabinet at an auction recently.  I knew instantly that I wanted to paint it black.  It was originally a record cabinet that had been gutted, there’s even a hole, which I opted not to fill, where the old Victrola handle used to be.  (I wish it still was)

So after a very thorough cleaning, very light sanding, and a major fix and filling of the veneer on the top, I painted it using Americana Decor Chalky finish in carbon.  I have used this paint many times, and have never been disappointed, and the nice thing, for a small project like this, the little sizes they come in are perfect!

So I got out my black, gave it two coats (lightly sanding in between coats) and a wet sanding.  For those of you who don’t know, this paint is great for wet sanding.  After it dries to the touch, about 30 minutes or so, take a damp sponge, and a clean bucket of water, and just start rubbing over the parts you’d like to sand.  No dust, which means if you are careful, you can easily do this inside.  You do have to clean off your sponge often to avoid mess and black fingertips.

The next day after another light sanding, I waxed and buffed my piece.

Now for the fun part!  The glass.  When I bought this cabinet, the glass was clear, and you could see the contents of the cabinet.  However, the shelves are narrow, and I didn’t see it as the best piece to put things on display, so I decided to try doing a mercury glass finish to the glass.

After reading several tutorials on this, all of them different, but similar, I came to the conclusion that you can’t really screw this up.  So this is exactly what I did.

  1. Remove the cabinet door and tape off the frame surrounding the glass. I also cleaned the glass. Important: You do this to the back side of your cabinet door, not the front.
  2. You take a spray bottle and spritz the glass (still on the back side) with straight vinegar.
  3. You shake up a can of Krylon Looking Glass spray for at least a minute. Then give the cabinet door a light spray in a sweeping motion over top of your vinegar droplets.  I did two light coats, one about 30 seconds after the other.
  4. Then I did another very light spritz of vinegar and another two light coats.
  5. After about 2 minutes I took a paper towel, balled it up and VERY lightly blotted the surface.
  6. I repeated this process until I got the look and opacity that I desired.

Speaking of opacity, this stuff is so cool.  When you looked at it from a distance, it looked like an old mirror, but when you looked at it close up, you could see right through it.  I LOVED how it turned out, and like I said, I don’t think you can screw this up.

 

DIY mercury glass finish, paint color americanna decor chalky finish in carbon.  Victrolla makeover.  By de-uglied designs
As usual with my photography, it looks much better in person, I had a terrible time trying to get an accurate photo of the glass finish.

And there you have it, a super simple, SUPER neat finish. Try it on a project of your own and send me a pic, I’d love to see your own creations!

 

As always, thanks for reading.

 

Jessie

 

Cool new products, and beard scares.

Sanding in a state of trepidation is a good way to sand.  While a certain amount of unease is, uncomfortable, you tend to get a lot done when your mind is elsewhere.  So it all works out.

Recently, this is how I felt when I sanded a little cabinet, and the reason I sanded like this is because my husband Ryan was beginning the slow and terrifying process of trimming his beard.

While it varies, the routine goes something like this.  He grows his beard out for a few months, he doesn’t exactly grow it long, but just puffy, thick, copper colored.  You know, long enough to lose track of his chin.  Sort of, Leprechauny.  (we tend to live more like brother and sister when he does this).  Then one day, when he’s tired of his mustache getting in the way of his food, he starts to trim.  And it is a process that makes the whole family uneasy.

I will explain with this handy graph.

My nightmare
My nightmare

He starts with step 1, the bushy beard.  This in itself is not good, but we all know that it can get so much worse.  You see, what he enjoys doing is just trimming off a bit at a time, sometimes letting hours or EVEN days pass before moving on to the next beard monstrosity.  I am amazed at what the style of a beard can do transform a person’s looks.  He can go from a hillbilly to a redneck to some sort of pervert in a couple of hours.  (number 3 or 4 is exactly the kind of person you could imagine lurking around your property and raping your goats) And the more we protest, the more strength he gains to carry on. Ultimately, he gets to step 6, and becomes my handsome man again.  But the images in my head….

They remain.

What’s that got to do with sanding?  Well, nothing. But now you know my state of mind while performing my least favorite task. I had a fervor that one only feels when their husband is trimming his beard and showing off the midway results.  The good news, the sanding went fast.

So here’s the fun news, I actually got the products I’m about to review for freeeeeeeeeeeeeee and it was like Christmas in August  for me when I received them. (yeah, I started this post a long time ago… so what?) I decided to try these products on a little cabinet Ryan brought home the other day.  It had good bones, but was missing some larger pieces of veneer from the door front.

If a little veneer is missing, I’ll go for a simple, sandable/paintable wood filler.  If a lot is missing, I break out the big guns, BONDO, which is so stinkin’ stinky but so effective, it dries rock hard and sands like butta.  (I mean butter people, although, butter would be disgusting to sand, so let’s move on)

But today I’m trying a new product and I’m excited.  It is called SculpWood, by SYSTEM THREE products.  It’s a spreadable epoxy paste.  It is easy to sand and machines just like wood.  Following the manufacturers instructions, I added a dollop of part A, and an equal sized dollop of part B on a disposable plate.  Using a little putty knife, (which, in my case, was a piece of cardboard) I mixed part A and part B together and spread it on my missing veneer, making sure to slightly overfill.  It had a similar consistency to the BONDO I use but I thought it smelled quite a bit better, but still strong.  Now I just had to wait for it to dry.  Because of the ridiculous humidity, I knew it would take a while for it to cure, so I let it be.

 

Scuptwood review.  by de-uglied designs
Ew, just ew.
Scuptwood review.  by de-uglied designs
Better!

Now for the cabinet.

I removed the hardware and sanded down the entire thing lightly, both to even out any issues with the former finish and also to rough it up a bit.  Next I cleaned the entire thing to remove oils and excess dust.  The product I’m using says that no prep is needed, but since this is a piece I will hopefully sell someday, I prefer to prep, if only just to give it a nicer surface to apply the paint.  If you were to follow the “no prep” suggestion, make sure to thoroughly clean the piece beforehand, even if it doesn’t look dirty.  I also gave it a quick spray of primer, because I had it and it certainly can’t hurt.

 

After the primer dried, I gave it another quick sanding and cleaning and it was finally time to whip out my product, Krylon Chalky Finish in “Waterfall” They were kind enough to send me two cans, and a few more goodies.  I sprayed it in a sweeping motion and it went on very nicely and dried to a smooth even finish.  I went through the first can quickly, having left one moderately patchy coat, but covering the whole thing.  I left it to dry, and went in for a second coat with the new can.  Again, it went on very well, I was impressed.  Unfortunately, even with two cans, I ran out of product and didn’t have enough for the final few touch-ups, or the door I had patched.  So I went on a mad hunt to purchase a third can.  According to the website, it is sold at Michaels, JoAnn Fabrics, Hobby Lobby, and Walmart.  (to mention a few local stores)  However, over the course of the next couple weeks, I visited all of those stores and not one of them (at the time I am writing this post) stocked this product.  So I had to turn to another way of purchasing things.  It is called the internet.

My first stop was Amazon, as a Prime Member, I always look here first because you can’t beat free, two-day shipping.  Unfortunately, the color I needed was out of stock.  I then went to several different sites and searched for corresponding coupon codes.  But, ultimately, I ended up ordering through JoAnnfabrics.com for a whopping $17 a can, (including shipping)  Yep.

So while I was waiting to receive my shipment, I went back to my door.  The filler worked like magic, it dried nicely, sanded smoothly, and had a hard, wood-like finish.  It was every bit as good as the BONDO, but less stinky.  A win.

So once I sanded down the door a bit, I put a quick coat of primer on both sides, and eventually, when I got my Krylon Chalky Finish in the mail, I went right to work.  Thankfully, I had enough to finish with touch-ups and the door.  I also took off the back of the cabinet, and added some fabric for fun.  This piece is bright and happy so I went with it with all of my heart.

Krylon Chalky Finish review, cabinet repaired with BONDO
Ain’t she happy!

Krylon Chalky Finish review by de-uglied designs

Just like with any chalk paint, you’re going to want to lightly sand it to give it a smooth, even finish.  And then you’ll want to seal it.  Since I was trying new products, I decided to try one more.  This one is from a company called Goddards.  The product I used is called Cabinet Maker’s Wax Spray.  This is the lazy man’s chalk paint waxing dream, and I am that lazy man.  It is a lemon and beeswax wood cleaner, sealer and protector.  It is divine.  After I sanded and removed the dust from my piece, I gave it a quick spray, buffed in the wax, let it dry, and gave it another coat. It ended up leaving a nice even sheen.  I am in Heaven, seriously, this product may change my life.  Now, for heavier use, I would go with a traditional wood wax, or for really heavy use, I’d go with a polyurethane, lacquer, or water based polyurethane, but for something like this, this spray worked perfectly.  And it is only $5.99 per bottle!  (not including shipping)

So, for the review.  I absolutely loved the ease and finish of the Krylon Chalky Finish spray paint.  Great product!  The cons really have to do with availability and price. If I had bought three cans online, at $17 each, along with paying $15 for the piece itself, and the several hours of time put into it, let’s just say, there’s no profit in it for the person who de-uglied it.  (boo hoo, that be me) If you can find this product at a store it retails for $10.  That price is still a little high for me, considering I ended up using three cans, but many places, Michaels, JoAnn Fabrics, and Hobby Lobby for example, have a 40-50% coupon and I would say, if they end up stocking this paint, go get yourself some.  I sure hope to eventually find this paint locally, because I really did like it.

I loved the Goddards products, I have tried several now for my wood AND painted pieces and the quality is fantastic.  I have never used a nicer furniture polish, and that wax spray will be my go-to for my jewelry boxes especially.

I also really liked the Sculpwood, and will definitely be purchasing this in the future, they even have a product that you can mold like clay, and then when it cures, you can sand and shape it.  There are so many times I could have used something like that.  Now to find the piece…..

All in all, with the exception of the availability issues with the Krylon paint, I’d have to say all of these products are a win, go give them a try for yourself.

Krylon Chalky Finish review, by de-uglied designs

 

 

 

And now, a warning. If you see a man in the FM area running around with a number 3 mustache/beard combo… just to be safe, you better keep your goats in the house.

beard
BEWARE!

 

 

Just a personal note, I know I haven’t been very active on any of my social media sites or blog lately.  If I can be honest, I’m experiencing a little amount of work/business/home burnout, and haven’t fully recovered.    I just want you all to know that I haven’t disappeared, and I am still very proud of my little side business.  Thanks for your support, patience and for accepting me and my business as I am.

 

Thanks for reading!

 

 

Miss Mustard Seed Milk Paint, mishaps and triumphs

A couple weeks ago after arriving home from a long day at work, I was greeted at the door by my smiling daughter who announced she had a surprise for me.  She had arranged a cardboard box upside down in the center of my kitchen island, and she told me to get ready for something BIG.  You see, a while back, my sweet Emmi had told me that she was going to email a couple of companies I liked and request a sample on my behalf, in exchange for an honest review.  I told her to go ahead, that it sounded like a great idea, but hadn’t expected much in return.  So when she lifted off the box I found myself in the midst of having a small, but positive heart attack.  Oh…my…gosh… is this really happening? Yes it is.  It really is.  I had received a very generous gift from Miss Mustard Seed that included three bags of Miss Mustard Seed milk paint, a mechanical stirrer, some help oil, a paint brush, and a look book.  Is it my birthday, anniversary, mother’s day all rolled into one?  Well, no, but if felt like it.  Needless to say, I told Emmi with a great deal of urgency, “We need to get something to paint… NOW!”  We both stormed the basement, taking stairs two at a time, snagged a couple of smallish wall hanging type of décor pieces, and started prepping.  (which included a light sanding and cleaning)

Miss Mustard seed review and tutorial by de-uglied designs
My bounty, I’m not even the slightest bit joking when I say it is probably going to be the highlight of 2015. So grateful!

Now, I have used milk paint in the past, but it was long ago and it was not Miss Mustard Seed’s brand, so I was anxious to give this a try, I have heard it is quite amazing, but can have quite a learning curve.  And oh boy, did it ever.  First off, our first mix was way too thin, but because we didn’t want to waste any more of our precious paint, we decided to just apply 400 layers of ultra-thin paint to our pieces (at least the dry time was quick).  In the end, after hours of painting at my dining room table and watching two or more episodes of “LOST”, (we’re a little behind the times people) we had two cute pieces of home décor with a nice, smooth matte finish.  Not bad.

DSC03380
While the mix was a little thin, they still have a very nice finish. We just had to do a lot more coats to achieve the look.

But for this generous bounty, I knew I needed to give it “real” try, on an actual piece of furniture.  And I knew just the one.

A few months back, a friend of mine had kindly given me a fabulous dresser.  It had great bones, minus the fact that it was missing a leg and had several unfortunate coats of paint that had seen better days. Often, this dresser would sneer at me from across my garage, and I would wave my angry fist back at it in response.  Not because it was a bad dresser, it was LOADED with potential, but because it was a dresser I was in no hurry to makeover. I knew it would require a complete and very time-consuming amount of stripping and sanding.  Then there was the matter of the leg.  The stinkin’ missing leg.

drawers1
Original piece, notice the left front leg is missing so I propped it up with piles of wood.

It was, however a dresser that would be a perfect candidate for milk paint.  Classic lines and solid bones. A time-worn beauty she was indeed.  Ug.

So Friday, when I got home from work, I went straight to my garage, and started stripping. (the paint that is…) The layers of paint were cooperative, not super cooperative mind you, I’d give them about a 6 out of 10.  The rest of the job had to be done with my “favorite” technique.  The devil sanding.  So I masked up, and started out with a few drawers, stripping, scraping, and sanding.  Did I mention it was 95 degrees out?  Gross.

And on a side note, for some reason, instead of having a designated pair of painting shorts, I just roll my pink painting sweat pants up about 30 times, so it looks like I’m wearing one large donut around each thigh.  And I tend to wear nurse clogs without socks while I work.  And I was sweating, a lot.

I write this to give you a mental picture of how cool I looked in my driveway that day.

So I loved the old lines on this dresser, and since I was embracing milk paint, and hopefully a few of its quirks, I decided to NOT fill chips and other things I would normally fill in, and leave it looking a little worn.  This was a hard decision and left me quite shaken.  In general, I like to make things look new again, as in, completely smooth and pristine. But the dresser told me that I should be a little open-minded, and just “let it go”.  (like the song)

drawers
These are the drawers after the stripping, before the sanding. Notice the wood on the top drawer is completely different from the wood on the bottom drawers.  What up with dat?

So after all the stripping, scraping, sanding, and cleaning I had done.  I mixed the milk paint.  This time, I added the perfect amount of milk paint (it’s a powder) to water, and I mixed and mixed and mixed, and let it sit for 15 minutes, then mixed again.  And then I painted my freshly sanded and cleaned drawers.  Three of them, the last drawer was currently blocked so I just did the three, figuring I’d do the fourth later.

This would be my first mistake.

The color I used was a very subtle green called “Layla’s Mint”.   Now, I was open to the idea of chipping, in fact, I had hoped for a little, and thought that painting in the super heat (a no-no) would possibly aid in the chipping.  But it was not to be, most likely because I sanded too well. The piece was practically bare wood again, so the milk paint sunk right in. But that’s ok, the finish was really pretty, similar to chalk paint, but with some subtle color variation, which I was loving.

After some light sanding, I painted a second coat, let it dry, sanded again, and decided to glaze the drawers using General Finishes Glaze Effects in Van Dyke brown.

Second mistake.  For those of you who have glazed, you will know that glazing in almost 100 degree heat is… impossible frustrating.  Yes, I knew it would be problematic, I ain’t stupid.  (just impatient) Let’s just say my shoulders got a really good workout trying to rub out all that excess glaze.  But, the end results looked terrific. It was just the look I was going for.  Now for the rest of the dresser.


 

Let me digress for a moment to give a shout out to the Milk Paint.  I had literally painted the drawers only about an hour before applying the glaze.  And as I said, it was so hot, the glaze just cemented itself to the drawer.  I used all my strength to rub that glaze out, and the paint didn’t budge.  That stuff is tough!!


 

Instead of stressing over exactly how I was going to fix the leg of the dresser, I made an executive decision and cut them all off.  I know.  It was hard, but once I started, it was quite liberating and I may have laughed maniacally during the whole process, which I barely ever get to do these days.  And I actually like the results, a lot!   Next was more of the same, stripping, scraping and sanding.  I had been working on the dresser for about 7 hours now, and it was starting to get dark.  BUT, I still had some paint mixed up from those three drawers, so I thought I better paint that last drawer.  The paint had gotten fairly chunky (probably from the heat) so I added a little more water, and started mixing.  It didn’t go very well, so I mixed a new amount, just to do that last drawer.  Problem solved.

Or so I thought.  Now, like I said, it was getting dark.  So I painted the first and second coat and glazed the drawer like I had the others.  It looked great, just like the first three.  Until I brought it over to the other three and it was a completely different color.  The other three, were definitely a muted green.  The fourth.  A toupey-grey.

What the?

But I was glad.  I had met my first quirk.  I had read in Marian’s look book just the night before about color variations, and the importance of mixing up enough milk paint to do the first coat on the entire piece to avoid such variations.  She was right.  Girl knows her paint.

And I should have known better.

I decided to sleep on it.  (literally, I crawled into one of the drawers) Honestly, if it had been more than one drawer, I maybe would have kept it that way, because it was cool.  But just having the bottom drawer gray was odd, so the next day, I mixed up the rest of the mix all at once, and I painted the entire piece including all four drawers again.  This fixed the issue.  After sanding, there was a delightful color variation in the dresser, and it had such a pretty authentic finish to it, like it had been around for ages.

And it sort of felt like it had to me too.

Next, I glazed the entire thing, again, in the heat and refinished the top using General Finishes Java gel stain.  I decided I wanted to leave some of the old chippy finish to the lip around the top, and I also lightly sanded down the Java stained top to give it a worn look.  When dry, I sealed it with the hemp oil, applying three coats with several days of cure time in between.  I brought it inside for this process.

Next, I added the hardware, and drilled some new holes for the original castors, which is nice because this thing is HEAVY!

And here’s the finished look, it is exactly how I envisioned it, and I’m pleased as pie!  (French Silk)  The parts I didn’t fill, they just add to the look I was going for.  While I’ll admit, it’s a lot more shabby chic than what I usually go for, I have fallen in love with this dresser, and all of its sweet, timeless character.  I loved Miss Mustard Seeds milk paint, I loved that it gives a true authentic finish, that it is all natural, and mostly that is has a mind of its own.

Miss Mustard Seed review and tutorial by de-uglied designs
Here she is!

miss mustard seed review and tutorial by de-uglied designs

I’d like to add a few notes on Miss Mustard Seed Milk paint.  First, there are several ways to mix it, check out Marian’s website for tips and tricks.  Also, you can mix colors to create your own unique look.  (and OMG… the colors are amazing)  For a chippier appearance, apply over an existing finish (but make sure to at least sand down the sheen for a more authentic look)  And something to keep in mind, a lot of people think “farmhouse chippy” when they think of milk paint, and while you can especially master that look using these products, with the addition of a bonding agent, you can make your finish more predictable, and your piece perfectly pristine, leaving out all of the shabby, but none of the chic.  (I bet you knew I was going to write that)  I would highly recommend this paint and can’t thank Marian of Miss Mustard Seed enough for the fantastic gift.  Stay tuned for a few more pieces I had the privilege of using this paint on.  And just an FYI, Miss Mustard Seed’s Milk Paint is available locally at Eco Chic in Fargo.  Go get some, I most definitely will.


 

This little cutie pie will be available at the Junk Market, October 2-3 at the West Fargo Fairgrounds.  I am, ahem… scrambling to get my booth ready and as always, guarantee a fantastic show.  For reals.

 

Thank you so much for reading!

 

%d bloggers like this: